When Chip Yuen offered to lend me two prototypes of the new Aevig Valkyr automatic for review, I jumped at the chance. I had already featured his previous models, the Corvid quartz field watch and Huldra
automatic dive watch, and was highly impressed. Chip has a background
in fine arts and industrial design, as well as a sharp eye for watch
design, so I was excited to see his third act. Valkyr
buyers may choose from six variants. I figured that contrasting dials
and bezels would give me the best impression of the range, so I
requested one bronze case with a black dial and green bezel, and one
steel case with a brown dial and blue bezel. My selections did not
disappoint.
Like his previous efforts, the Valkyr was inspired by 1970s sport watches. Aficionados of the era might recognize some Tissot, Seiko, and Zodiac influences. The case is roughly box shaped with north-south brushing and sharply defined corners. It is available in CuSn8 bronze or 316L stainless steel cases, measuring 39mm across, 48mm long, and 14mm thick. Square
or cushion cases tend to wear much larger than their dimensions
suggest, but the Valkyr is actually quite compact. You will not mistake
it for a dress watch, but it is a comfortable fit on even a small wrist,
slipping under most shirt cuffs and announcing its presence with style,
not size. The
case sides bow around the circular dial and bezel, the lugs are angled
outward and down, and a beveled edge runs the length of the case. These
subtle variations trim the appearance of the watch and make it far more
interesting than if it had been a simple square. In profile, you will
notice the otherwise flat sides tuck under as they approach the back
side, thereby eliminating a hard edge where the case meets the wrist.
The
3 o'clock crown is coin edged and signed with a cast Aevig hexagon logo
painted dark red. This same logo graces the dial as well. The
combination of relief and color reminded me of a wax seal. Both
the crown and case back screw down. This Valkyr has a 100 meter water
resistance rating, which goes far to making it a versatile, all-purpose
accessory. The case back is engraved with the hexagon logo, but in a nod
to the model name, it is rendered with a stylized wing motif. Inside
the Valkyr, a trusty Miyota 9015 automatic movement purrs along at a
smooth 28.8k bph. This familiar 24 jewel movement hacks, hand winds, and
has a 40 hour power reserve. It also typically has a date function, but
this has been omitted from the Valkyr's dial, and frankly, I did not
miss it one bit. A
sapphire crystal tops it all off. It is double domed, with an internal
anti-reflective coating and a sharp beveled edge. The dome is fairly
pronounced, standing high above the bezel. This may increase the chance
of chipping, but that is a risk I'm willing to take. The tall dome is
perfectly in keeping with the retro feel, and it just looks cool.
The strap is 20mm wide and rally style, with three large holes on each
end. Black and brown will be offered. The straps pictured on the
prototypes are not planned for production. The final versions will be
thicker, will not taper, will have contrasting white stitching, and a
signed brushed buckle. This may well be the only feature to change on
the production watch. The prototypes were otherwise already quite sorted
and the level of finish was excellent.
The
bezel is stainless on both versions. The edge is polished and it is
fitted with a flat ceramic insert in blue or green. The intensity of the
color varies greatly depending on the light. Under most circumstances,
it is dark and muted but it pops to life in direct sunlight. It is one
of the defining characteristics of the watch and was a fun effect to
play with when I was photographing the samples. Dials
are offered in a choice of blue, green, or black, but all have a white
chapter ring. Applied markers are color keyed to the case, and along
with the baton hands, are treated with BG-W9 for a bluish glow. Dial
text is minimal, but each line is distinctive: applied red logo and
white printed brand name in capital letters at the top, printed white
"automatic" and yellow "valkyr" at the bottom. A red second hand is the
final touch. I
have to applaud Chip's use of color. Had he played it safe with simple
black-and-white dials, or a single accent color, he still would have
created very attractive watches; however, he took a more complex route,
selecting combinations that are less common, and require a keen eye to
pair convincingly. He executed it perfectly, rewarding us with rich and
nuanced combinations that stand apart from the crowd.
The stainless/brown/blue was cool combination in both tone and appeal.
The brown dial is the color of café au lait, mellower than the cold
colors of the steel case and dark blue bezel surrounding it. The dial
accents appeared as subtle hints of color against the mellow brown. The
overall look was smooth, stylish, and reserved. The clean, sleek looks
of the stainless model make it easy to wear with a wide variety of
outfits. The drilled strap keeps it firmly in the sport/casual side of
the sartorial spectrum, but add a dark brown or navy leather dress
strap, and it could easily step up to a coat and tie.
The bronze/black/green arrived with a well developed patina, burnished
at the edges from normal handling. This watch is the warmer of the two.
Multiple tones of reddish gold and mottled brown complement the green
ceramic, lending it a more organic appearance. The black dial anchors
the piece while its applied markers and colored elements jump off the
dial in bold contrast. I would happily wear this watch all year long,
but there is something particularly autumnal in its delicious panoply of
gold, red, and green, like fall foliage in the hour before sunset. The
combination is a natural complement to textured fabrics like denim and
tweed.
With the Valkyr, Chip has captured the best aspects of some 1970s sport
watch designs, updated them with a contemporary palette, and infused
them with his own personality, creating watches with marvelous
character. He has also managed to deliver them at a very reasonable
price. You can pre-order yours directly from Aevig for €450 (@ $557
USD). Knock 21 per cent VAT off that price if you are ordering outside
the EU, which brings it down to about $440 USD at today's exchange rate.
Better still, early orders can get additional discounts of up to €100
(@ $120 USD). See the Aevig site for details.
Pro: Outstanding design
Con: They won't ship until April.
Sum: Retro-modern done right. The Time Bum approves.
